Both Burberry and Bottega Veneta are undergoing intense change. I am interested to see what happens — especially because both have been resting on their laurels to their detriment.
Where will BV go after this ‘paying tribute’ to the past period passes? The enormous woven pattern is unappealing and too unimpressive to me, but some of the other bags have promise. The designer, Daniel Lee, needs to be let loose to truly work without the shackles of the house’s past–here the past will not aid him but burden him.
The pouch was a surprise success, partially due to paid promotion one assumes as it was seen everywhere online, but it did have an organic appeal. Other BV designs will need to capture that same attention in the future. Promotion can only go so far, new and interesting collections of bags are essential.
Burberry appears to be doing well with its new logo monogram pattern, as well as with their large ‘all caps’ logo, but it remains to be seen whether this fad fades or continues beyond its immediate success in China.
Some people prefer logos all day, every day — others want none at all. And still others prefer a discreet logo. This list is for them. I am linking to photos/listings on sites so you can see what they look like quickly. These bags are classic shapes yet still have a tiny bit of branding if that’s what you’re into:
-One large under the radar bag is the Mulbery Hopton, it has two pull tabs on the zipper which makes it easier to use. The Bayswater is perhaps too known to qualify, but some may feel it does.
-Another option that’s not as subtle for a shoulder bag is the soft Lanvin Sugar bag
-A tote bag option is the Ralph Lauren Marcy, it has a great classic shape.
-One obvious addition to this list is the Fendi Peekaboo, but it’s shape is not classic enough. It’s appealing, but just slightly not perfect.
-The Row is another option, but their bag styles are quite particular and very modern to me.
Obviously there are many of these at independent artisans’ shops, especially on say Etsy, in Italy and many other countries, and online. The vintage market provides you with a plethora of these. I prefer Vestiaire Collective myself but no site is perfect, of course. There will always be problems on all sites with photos, shipping etc.
In terms of designer non-logo bags, ranging from non-wildly obvious to totally no logo, I like:
–Roger Vivier if you don’t mind the square buckle — some of his clutches and bags have it covered in crystal flowers.
–Nancy Gonzalez bags in bright tropical colors for those who enjoy that or who live in tropical climates [where it meshes very well with the summery styles] or in more neutral shades for those of us who prefer that type of thing. She often uses very classic shapes, which I like.
-Some people might be interested in the LV epi leather bags, perhaps the Pont Neuf bag.
-Obviously the Kelly is one major option here, [and one of my absolute favorite bags/shapes], but some may discount it because of how recognizable it is [as well as the Birkin.] Many other Hermes bags are not so well known, but aren’t appealing: the Verrou Chaine looks too much like a bathroom stall door closure, the Evelyn [and Constance, and Lindy] is quite branded in it’s own way, and the Berlin bag is oddly half puffer-coat echoing.
The Berlingot bag is an excellent style, however. I recommend the Bolide only if you emboss something [anything] on the circle that appears to be begging for it. I cannot stand a blank Bolide bag. Another recommendation is the simple Double Sens Tote.
The Bourlingue and the Cabag are not of interest to me personally, nor are the canvas/other totes like the Garden Party. The Catenina looks too much like a craft project with jewelry hanging off of it [very 70s in style to me.]
The Christine bag is too severe in a way, but if you enjoy vintage pieces you may like it’s sharply angled triangle flap and large silver button. The Jypsiere is similarly styled in an unfortunately dated way. It does not imply youth [just like the Plume bag.] I think the Picotin is hard to pin down, it is on the line between old and new. I cannot decide.
The Marwari bags is seldom seen or found but has a great classic style to them. [The Massai is too much of an exaggerated hobo shape, much like some Postman Lock [3 eye] Mulberry totes.]
The Toolbox bag, Dalvy, Colorado style, Trim bag, the Octogone, and Drag style are uninteresting styles — simple but not simple enough to be appealing.
The Halzen is appealing, however it is too busy and fussy. If you enjoy aesthetic above all else and don’t mind a bag that’s hard to get into–and love horses and racing above all else, along with its paraphernalia–give it a look. The Herbag has a similar opening and closing problem, while the Roulis is a bit too on the nose in terms of its hardware to make it useful.
Obvious this will be a misnomer for some people, but titles must say something. Bright, extravagant, loud bags include:
-Anya Hindmarch: everything, almost, from glitter clutches, smiley faces everywhere, the Bazooka gum bag, the ‘eyes’ bags to the ‘sticker/comic book’ bags ***Exceptions: the Bathurst bags and others that seem to be more Nancy Gonzalez than Moschino
-Moschino: speaking of it, it should be on the list. The pinkish purple hairspray bag is a good one — small yet novel. They’ve covered all the novelty bases in a more ‘realism’ style than the ‘sweet innocence’ style of Kate Spade’s novelty bags
-Judith Leiber’s cute modern designs of ice creams and French fries done in crystals are very playful and youthful.
-Fendi’s bird eyes [or monsters] are very amusing.
Just as many recognize Bach’s genius yet don’t put his music on their playlist [J.S. or C.P.E.], I enjoy many bags from a distance without wanting one for myself. Examples include:
-Céline’s Trapèze bag
-Aspinal of London’s many bags
-Givenchy’s Nightingale bag
-Fendi’s Peekaboo bag
-Every bag by Nancy Gonzalez [though I want to get many of these, some are too bright for me personally]
-Phillipp Plein’s skull and studs bags
-Many of Bottega Veneta’s bags [the woven slouchy ones and the more outré ones — even the pouch]
Do I usually avoid light colored bags? Yes. They show wear the fastest in many cases and can have color transfer problems easily/overtly.
Do I also avoid patent leather? Another yes. However, this bag has caught my eye despite breaking my own rules! It’s an old patent leather bag by Celine.
If you don’t want a fan or all of the ones you prefer have long tassels [if you don’t prefer tassels] either cut them shorter or get a hard rectangular clutch in a neutral color. Avoid satin in general and suede [and fur] as well — both are hard to clean compared to a tougher material.
Interesting that Diesel, Marc Jacobs, Botkier and Juicy Couture are not part of the current 1990’s and 2000’s fashion/purse revival. As we’ve all noticed, Dior’s saddlebag has made an interesting comeback — but what remains to be seen is it if has legs with regular consumers and not just celebrities and the online denizens.
Stella vegan Falabella bags might not fit into this discussion perfectly but they are certainly another older trend that has not come back to the forefront of fashion. Matt & Nat used to be the default vegan bag recommendation until recent quality problems took over the discussion.
Burberry classic plaid has a hard road ahead of it — they should jump onto another skien of plaid and focus on it, in my opinion.
Longchamp’s Le Pilage bags and the LV Speedy bag never left the scene, really, but they are definitely still going strong. Valentino’s rockstud bags have surprisingly not vanished in all this time — perhaps they, like Prada, have some kind of staying power with people who want something fixed and unchanging.
Handbag Hype 
